Basic questions about Kallitype

[dlin]

Hi folks,
I am just starting out printing with the Kallitype process and had a few basic questions to which I haven’t been able to find answers from online information. As a starting point, I am following the procedures outlined by Sandy King in his article on unblinkingeye.com. The first question has to do with the clearing step, and what I should expect to see in the highlights and unexposed portions of the print with respect to paper base white. After exposure, development and clearing (+ subsequent fixing), I am not seeing a clearing of coating stain in the highlights or unexposed portions anywhere close to the base paper white. This lends a rather dull appearance to the print.

The second question has to do with requirements for working under safelight conditions during coating and development. Is this necessary to avoid fogging, or can I work a distance away from dim incandescent lighting?

Finally, there seem to be a number of variations in making the ferric oxalate solution; e.g. addition of oxalic acid and EDTA. Is this necessary, or can I get good results from a straight 20% ferric oxalate solution (powder from Artcraft)?

Description of process and materials:
Film: 4x5 TMY developed in Pyrocat HD
Coating solution: 1:1 20% ferric oxalate + 10% silver nitrate
Substrate: fixed-out and washed Ilford FB paper
Exposure under UV lamp
Developer: 20% sodium citrate
60 second water rinse
Clearing: 3% citric acid
60 second water rinse
Fixing: 5% sodium thiosulphate, + sodium carbonate + sodium sulfite
Final wash

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Regards,
Daniel

 

[sanking]

Hi folks,
I am just starting out printing with the Kallitype process and had a few basic questions to which I haven’t been able to find answers from online information. As a starting point, I am following the procedures outlined by Sandy King in his article on unblinkingeye.com. The first question has to do with the clearing step, and what I should expect to see in the highlights and unexposed portions of the print with respect to paper base white. After exposure, development and clearing (+ subsequent fixing), I am not seeing a clearing of coating stain in the highlights or unexposed portions anywhere close to the base paper white. This lends a rather dull appearance to the print.

The second question has to do with requirements for working under safelight conditions during coating and development. Is this necessary to avoid fogging, or can I work a distance away from dim incandescent lighting?

Finally, there seem to be a number of variations in making the ferric oxalate solution; e.g. addition of oxalic acid and EDTA. Is this necessary, or can I get good results from a straight 20% ferric oxalate solution (powder from Artcraft)?

Description of process and materials:
Film: 4x5 TMY developed in Pyrocat HD
Coating solution: 1:1 20% ferric oxalate + 10% silver nitrate
Substrate: fixed-out and washed Ilford FB paper
Exposure under UV lamp
Developer: 20% sodium citrate
60 second water rinse
Clearing: 3% citric acid
60 second water rinse
Fixing: 5% sodium thiosulphate, + sodium carbonate + sodium sulfite
Final wash

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Regards,
Daniel

You should see a clearing of the stain. In fact, the clearing should almost be complete at the end of devleoping. If the print does not clear completely withing a coule of minutes in the clearing bath then something is most likely wrong with either your ferric oxalate or developer, and of the two the most likely culprit is the developer. You must replenish kallitype developer on some systematic basis (my method is to add about 100ml of fresh solution per liter of developer) because if you don't you will definitely get staining, and you won't be able to remove it. Another issue is developer pH. It should be on the acidic side, say about 6.5 or slightly lower. If it is alkaline staining is likely.

Some papers also cause staining because they are too alkaline. These papers also tend to give very low Dmax.

Sandy

 

[dlin]

Thanks Sandy for your reply. All of the chemistry was mixed using filtered RO/DI water, but I haven't tested the pH of my solutions. The developer and clearing solutions were made just before use so I can rule out that possibility. Is it possible that the fixed-out paper I used (using alkaline rapid fixer) retained an alkaline pH even after extensive washing? If so, would an acidifying bath be helpful to avoid staining? What agent would you suggest using for that purpose?

Thanks again for your help,

Daniel

 

[philsweeney]

I'd suggest trying COT320, Crane's platinotype or strathmore 400 watercolor. I do an oxalic acid presoak for 2 min on the 400. I have had the best results with these 3 papers and all cleared during development. Still do the citric acid clearing step. There were many other papers I tried! I tried fixed-out silver-gelatin paper with poor results also. I mix FO straight at 120 degrees. I understand development should begin with no safelight to avoid fogging. I use a low watt yellow lamp to coat. Dry the paper in complete darkness.

 

[dlin]

Phil, thanks for the suggestions- I'll definitely give them a try. It seems counterintuitive that the base for silver gelatin paper should not be a perfect substrate for coating. I thought I had found the perfect use for old fogged paper- Dang!

Regards,
Daniel