For those of us without a densitometer (or a spot meter) or, like me, have a very low threshold for complicated test procedures I use a method that I was taught my the NCOIC of the first military darkroom I worked in. All you need is a Kodak projection scale, a clear piece of film or clear negative of the film you intend to test, a few family members and a day to fuss about.
The first step to find a time for your paper. Set the hight of your enlarger for a 8X10, put the clear film in the negative carrier, paper (normal contrast) in an easel with the projection scale on top of the paper to be tested. The Kodak projection scale is basically a round step wedge. In normal use is used with a negative to create a test strip, in this case we are looking for the best time that provides a full range a tones from white to black. Set F stop to your usual working apature and pick a time. I normally use 8 seconds as my starting point. Expose the paper and develop at your standard time. After fixing, quick wash dry the test print, for fiber base use a microwave, and inspect the test print. You are looking for white that is paper base and a good black with midtone separation. Too dark another test strip less time, too light darken increase time, and repeat until you find the best time. You can do 2 tests on 1 8X10. Each enlarger lens may test with different times.
Second step to find the true film speed for you target film and camera. You need a few friends or family members. Find a spot with open shade, have person in dark (black) sweater with some texture, another in a light (white) sweater with some texture. A gray card (optional) is helpful. Set your cameras light meter to 3 stops below the films rated speed. For ASA 100 start with 12. Expose one frame at each 1/2 stop increase so the range is 3 stops below and 3 higher than the rated speed. Develop in your prime developer at the recommended time. After the negatives dry using the same paper and time make a contact sheet, develop fix wash dry and inspect the contact sheet looking for the first frame with texture in the black sweater, this is your shadow detail and that frame is your films true speed for your camera. Each camera needs to be tested. Now look at the highlights and midtones. If your highlights are blocked or muddy you need to find the true developing times for your film and developer combination.
Same set up, this time expose a roll of film,(or sheets) at your true film speed. In the dark room cut the roll into strips about 4 or frames and load one strip into a tank or develop in a tray. If your highlights were muddy incease the develpment time by 5%, if blocked decrease by 5%. After processing print and inspect, keep increasing or decreasing the development time until you have the highlights that you are looking for.
Once you have both the true film speed and development time for shooting in average conditions you will get an average (working)8x10 print without needing test strips, as long as the paper, paper develop, film, developer and development times are consistent. Change anything and need to start over.
Paul