Align Enlarger

[kjsphoto]

I was wondering how do you align the Beseler 45MX enlarger? I need to align the area where the lens / neg carrier goes into?

I have been contact printing so the alignment wasn't an issue. Now that I am enlarging again I need to make sure everything is good to go.

Thanks,

Kev

 

[jstraw]

I'm planning to buy the Versalab Parallel for aligning my Beseler.

http://www.versalab.com/server/photo/products/parallel.htm

 

[bdial]

At one time Zone VI sold an alignment kit which consisted of a ring and flange and lens mount which replaced the lens, and allowed a three point adjustment to the lens alignment, if I remember the details correctly. I own one, which is somewhere packed away with my Beseler 4x5. I'll try and locate it and post the details.
I think the basic method was to shim the film stage so that it was parallel with the baseboard, then allow the lens to be adjusted so that it's axis was normal to the film stage.

Barry

 

[jstraw]

At one time Zone VI sold an alignment kit which consisted of a ring and flange and lens mount which replaced the lens, and allowed a three point adjustment to the lens alignment, if I remember the details correctly. I own one, which is somewhere packed away with my Beseler 4x5. I'll try and locate it and post the details.
I think the basic method was to shim the film stage so that it was parallel with the baseboard, then allow the lens to be adjusted so that it's axis was normal to the film stage.

Barry

Yeah, I have both of my lenses mounted in this boards. Without them, an alignment device wouldn't do me a lot of good.

 

[Bruce Osgood]

I've had success using a lazer plumbbob (Home Depot, Lowes). You set it flat to the base board and direct up. Place a mirror in the negative stage that sticks out and catches the beam. Loosen the screws fixing the stage holder and move, twist, push, etc until the beam shines back on itself. Lock it down and move on.

 

[jstraw]

I've had success using a lazer plumbbob (Home Depot, Lowes). You set it flat to the base board and direct up. Place a mirror in the negative stage that sticks out and catches the beam. Loosen the screws fixing the stage holder and move, twist, push, etc until the beam shines back on itself. Lock it down and move on.

That will make your negative stage parallel with the baseboard. What does it do for the lens stage?

 

[Jim Jones]

I use a Unicolor Mitchell focusing aid and a test negative for alignment. This focusing aid works well in any area of the image. The test negative is made from a clear sheet of film lightly abraded with a circular motion throughout with fine and medium sandpaper. This test negative works well with condenser enlargers. I haven't used it with diffusion enlargers. For enlargers without alignment adjustments, shims of tape on the lens board or negative carrier also work. It isn't really important to have the negative, lens, and easel perfectly parallel as long as all of the image is in focus on the easel.

 

[Bruce Osgood]

That will make your negative stage parallel with the baseboard. What does it do for the lens stage?

I'm using an Omega D5XL and there isn't an apparent way to to adjust the lens stage by itself.

 

[kjsphoto]

the negative stage is fine. I put a piece of glass in their and used a level, it matches the baseboard. It is the lens area that I need to know how to adjust.

 

[jstraw]

I'm using an Omega D5XL and there isn't an apparent way to to adjust the lens stage by itself.

It's the same with the Beseler 45MXT. That's why I'm grateful to Zone VI for developing an adjustable lens board for them. I don't know if one is made for that Omega, commercially but the concept is simple. I had one made locally for a lens of mine once. Instead of having the lens mounted to the board that's affixed to the enlarger, it's mounted on a board that's attached to that board with three screws and 1/4" of neoprene is sandwiched between the two boards.

The neoprene acts as a light-tight "spring" providing resistance against the three adjustment screws.

 

[MattKing]

Maybe the large format gurus here can chime in on this question for me.

If one's enlarging lens is stopped down somewhat, and has the ability to cover a field of view larger than the negative itself, is it likely that minor alignment issues with respect to the lens stage may have little consequence?

I understand the benefit of having everything aligned, but it seems to me that even if you have one of the high end alignment tools available to you, you are probably relying on the enlarging lens being properly colimated, and the lens sitting properly on the lens board.

Should I use an enlarging lens with a focal length longer than the standard, for the negative size, to try to minimize the effects of lens alignment issues?

Inquiring minds want to know....

Matt

 

[Chazzy]

All I know is that the alignment procedure for the lens stage was different for the models preceding the 45mxt. I'm sorry that I can't be more helpful.

 

[jstraw]

All I know is that the alignment procedure for the lens stage was different for the models preceding the 45mxt. I'm sorry that I can't be more helpful.

Interesting...there was a procedure before the MXT? Because the MXT has no way (stock) to align that stage at all. Why did they do away with it?

 

[Dektol_Gerry]

"Delta" Lensboard

I just bought a Delta for my Beseler because I have the older model with no lens stage adjustment. It comes with an alignment negative
and it was very easy to line everything up. (Got it from B&H)

Hope this helps you...
Gerry

 

[RJS]

The later models of the Beseler 45 MX- have a lower bellow which is straight - no longer the older, conical bellows. The lens stage on the newer one is alignable-adjustable. The newer bellows is available from Beseler or B&H but runs around $300. And beware, the one I got had a heavy weight bellows that would not allow a 50mm lens to focus. Best to use a good 80 a la Schneider Componon-S for 35mm unless you want really big prints. Otherwise a recessed board and Nikkor 50, as Schneider and Rodenstock won't fit inthe recessed board. Versa Lab works great.

 

[jstraw]

The later models of the Beseler 45 MX- have a lower bellow which is straight - no longer the older, conical bellows. The lens stage on the newer one is alignable-adjustable. The newer bellows is available from Beseler or B&H but runs around $300. And beware, the one I got had a heavy weight bellows that would not allow a 50mm lens to focus. Best to use a good 80 a la Schneider Componon-S for 35mm unless you want really big prints. Otherwise a recessed board and Nikkor 50, as Schneider and Rodenstock won't fit inthe recessed board. Versa Lab works great.

I have the MXT (the later model) and I can't imagine what mechanism is intended as a basis for aligning the lens stage. How would one change the alignment of the lens stage independently of the negative stage without the aftermarket lens board?

 

[dancqu]

The proof of an exact alignment is the projected image
upon the baseboard or easel. Personaly I would not settle
for the indirect indications of any instruments used for
alignment. To be expected; I've machinist training.

IIRC, my last alignment used a square, a ruler, and
a magnifing glass at the baseboard. A negative carrier's
surface edge served for the projected image. Dan

 

[bdial]

Here's the Zone VI method, and a view of the kit, FWIW.
Seems more cumbersome than other methods presented here, but may work for some. My Beseler is still in pieces from my move, so I've not tried it.
(don't ask how long ago the move was)

cheers

 

[jstraw]

Here's the Zone VI method, and a view of the kit, FWIW.
Seems more cumbersome than other methods presented here, but may work for some. My Beseler is still in pieces from my move, so I've not tried it.
(don't ask how long ago the move was)

cheers

More cumbersome? Honestly, I know of no other way to align the lens stage and would love to know of any other way. If there's another way, could you describe it?

 

[Vaughn]

It isn't really important to have the negative, lens, and easel perfectly parallel as long as all of the image is in focus on the easel.

I have 20 enlargers to keep aligned. I try to have all 3 planes parallel...but am willing to settle for having all the image in focus on the easel. It does make a little difference as one may not project a rectanglar image (keystoning) if the 3 planes are not parallel. If one uses an easel to crop the image, no problem. One might run into a little problem with architectual work, but probably not notice it on portraits and landscales.

We have Beseler 23CII's and Omegas D5-XL's. I use a Versalab laser alignment tool ("Parallel") to get the planes as close to parallel as I can, then use a scratched negative to finish up the alignment with a visual check.

Vaughn

 

[jstraw]

I have 20 enlargers to keep aligned. I try to have all 3 planes parallel...but am willing to settle for having all the image in focus on the easel. It does make a little difference as one may not project a rectanglar image (keystoning) if the 3 planes are not parallel. If one uses an easel to crop the image, no problem. One might run into a little problem with architectual work, but probably not notice it on portraits and landscales.

We have Beseler 23CII's and Omegas D5-XL's. I use a Versalab laser alignment tool ("Parallel") to get the planes as close to parallel as I can, then use a scratched negative to finish up the alignment with a visual check.

Vaughn

If you're getting a keystoned projection then can you possibly be getting a sharp image corner-to-corner? If your three planes aren't parallel you can still focus at any one point but I don't think you can focus the whole image.

 

[photographs42]

I'm planning to buy the Versalab Parallel for aligning my Beseler.

http://www.versalab.com/server/photo/products/parallel.htm

I have the alignment tool you reference but I’m pretty sure it is from Zig Align. It looks like the Versalab unit. The Zig align site has a different model shown? I’ve had mine awhile. It works just as advertised. I’ve switched from my antique 45M to a Zone VI 5x7 so it is much easier to align.

With the 45M, I used black masking tape on the back (top) of the lens board to level it. Not an elegant or easy solution but it worked.

Jerome

 

[jstraw]

This is the zig-align:

http://www.zig-align.com/products_list.html

It's not the same device as:

http://www.versalab.com/server/photo/products/parallel.htm

 

[Colin Graham]

Kevin, I'm not sure what model mine is but if your Beseler is like mine, there are four screws with locknuts around the back of the focusing stage, these tighten nylon bushings that ride along on the gear channel. By loosening the top 2 and tightening the bottom 2 screws (or vice versa) you can effectively tilt the lens stage front to back. Hope this helps.

 

[Jim Jones]

The Zone VI method is a mechanical solution to an optical problem. There are obvious pitfalls. Vaughn's suggestion is a direct and simple optical solution to an optical problem.

Jstraw -- Both the head and the lens plane on my DeJur Versatile Professional 4x5 are tiltable, so perspective correction can be made on the baseboard with edge to edge sharpness. With many enlargers, the easel and either the film plane or the lens board must be tilted for this.