Hi, I'm going to be experimenting with Neutol and Forte polywarmtone and some standard VC Forte as well. I have an idea what I might get with the regular forte but am curious about polywarmtone & neutol, I think it might be an interesting combo..
The Neutol works very well on the forte polywarmtone imo too. I believe the Neutol and Neutol NE give a different look to the WA. I've been trying to get hold of the Neutol WA for a while, but unfortunately the NZ distributor will only supply in bulk + at a much higher price.Sean said:I am not sure which Neutol I have since the bottle only says "Neutol", there are no other markings. Anyway, today I printed forte polywarmtone with Neutol (from polaroid 665 negs) and I'm in heaven! I'm going to stock up on this combo as much as possible, it's exactly what I've been looking for..
John McCallum said:The Neutol works very well on the forte polywarmtone imo too. I believe the Neutol and Neutol NE give a different look to the WA. I've been trying to get hold of the Neutol WA for a while, but unfortunately the NZ distributor will only supply in bulk + at a much higher price.
The Amidol is looking good (much cheaper too).
APUG is a great resource and the search engine certainly picks up valuable threads! I've been using polywarmtone during the last year and always been diluting 1:7 (Neutol WA) and have been pleased with the modest tones and contrast. I was surprised to see the flat effect and the sepia tone of my 1:15 dilution last night, but now when I read this thread I understand that's the way it is. Can someone explain why it is like that? What's getting exhausted in the developer causing the sepiatone and the low contrast effect?ongarine said:You can control the contrast with high diluition from 1:7 to 1:11. Time of development will increase a little. These are my prefered diluitions with FortePolywarmtone.
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