Adox Ortho 25, EI + developer for continuos tone?

[timeUnit]

Hi!

I'd like to try an orthochromatic film (for nice dark portraits) in my new LF (4x5) camera, and as it happens I have some Adox Ortho 25 at hand.

To get reasonable contrast, what EI and developer can be recommended? I have Rodinal and XTOL available, but can of course order a specialty developer if needed.

I'm thinking EI 12 and Rodinal 1+100, minimal agitation, and maybe 15 minutes?

Lots of thanks!
henning

 

[Michel Hardy-Vallée]

I used Maco's ortho film in 35mm and if it's anything similar, Rodinal 1+100 with minimal agitation for 11 mins at EI 25 is a good start. In my daylight tank, I did 5 gentle inversions each minute.

Also, you might want to look at J&C's site (jandcphoto.com) for dev information; I know there is a new Adox ortho in 35mm coming up, but I don't know if it's the same emulsion you have. Some Adox products are sold as Efke, and J&C sells currently Ekfe ortho in sheet films.

Finally, you can also develop by inspection under a red safelight.

 

[Gerald Koch]

You shouldn't need a speciality developer as Ortho 25 is a continuous tone film as opposed to a microfilm. With slow films such as this one be careful not to overdevelop as this will cause excessive contrast.

 

[Markok765]

the big R

 

[timeUnit]

It seems I was wrong in my OP. I don't have Adox Ortho 25, but the "Adox Printfilm". I guess I'll just experiment until I get OK results. According to fotoimpex.de the Printfilm is orthochromatic, on polyester base, gives halftones in standard developers, and has a useable ISO of 6-25. I'll go for ISO 12 and try to keep the developing short.

 

[dancqu]

I'll just experiment ...
... gives halftones in standard developers, ...

Or gives very contrasty results. Halftones have to do with
little black spots which are produced using special lith type
developers.

The usual developers are too active. By lowering the ph
good results might be expected from just about any "standard"
developer. You might like to toy with additions of bicarbonate
of soda; A&H Baking Soda should do well. Use one-shot. If
I knew what and how much is to be used I'd make a stab
in the dark recommendation of how much to add. Dan

 

[Gerald Koch]

It seems I was wrong in my OP. I don't have Adox Ortho 25, but the "Adox Printfilm". I guess I'll just experiment until I get OK results. According to fotoimpex.de the Printfilm is orthochromatic, on polyester base, gives halftones in standard developers, and has a useable ISO of 6-25. I'll go for ISO 12 and try to keep the developing short.

Why don't you try one of the developers used for Kodak Technical Pan which are designed to limit contrast. Some formulas are; Burton, POTA, Perfection XR-1, or H&W Control. You can find the formulas on the net or google on Kodak tech pan.

 

[timeUnit]

Ok, so I shot at ISO 12, developed in 1+100 Rodinal for 11 minutes. Underexposed and too high contrast.

I also developed one sheet in Rodinal 1+50 for 16 minutes. A little better speed, but contrast was too much. Also, skin tones are not rendered nice at all. I'm not talking about the darkening of skin associated with ortho films, which was there, but to a much lesser extent than expected. The contrast was just tooo much and skin looked very oily.

 

[Michel Hardy-Vallée]

If you want an idea of the look of Maco Ortho, I posted two such examples in my gallery (hydrant and tomb). They were exposed at EI 12 or 25, and Rodinal 1+100 for 11 mins, with very delicate agitation.