I got very lucky with my Moskva-5 -- it came to me direct from Ukraine, and appeared to be freshly serviced; all shutter speeds are accurate, the lens clean and focus and RF correctly set, though there is a small vertical misalignment in the RF that I might try to correct sometime.
It took me almost two years to get the hang of hand holding the camera at any speed slower than 1/250, but I finally learned how to support it to get good hand held images down to 1/50, which is slower than I "should" be able to go with a 105 mm lens.
For other 6x9, I have a Voigtlander Rollfilmkamera (immediate ancestor of the Inos I, differing mainly in not having support for 6x4.5 dual format with mask); the Skopar in dial-set Compur is clean and clear, speeds and focus are accurate after a little tinkering, and I think I've gotten all the light leaks out after carefully bending the thin sheet metal of the back and inner body and adding a pair of baffles made from Foamies material on the spool spindle ends. My Wirgin Auta 6.3 almost never goes out without the 6x4.5 mask, now that I have multiple other 6x9 cameras, but the wonderful thing about a slow lens on 6x9 is that even a cheap triplet (Wirgin Gewironar) doesn't look bad if you can only open it half a stop past f/8 and shoot on big negatives. And my most recent 6x9 acquisition, a Zeiss-Ikon Ikomat I got from Tim O'Brien, hasn't yet been tested with film because I want to clean the lens first, but I expect it to be very much like the Wirgin except for lack of 6x4.5 mask; it has an f/6.3 Novar-Anastigmat triplet and and identical Vario shutter with 25-50-100 plus B and T.
BTW, if you want to convert a 6x9 folder to pinhole, the simplest way is just to remove the glass from the shutter and mount your pinhole to the "shelf" in front of the shutter blades; this will leave the viewfinder accurate, let the shutter and retaining ring continue to retain the bellows to the front standard, preserve the compactness of the camera when folded, and allow for restoring the camera to original condition if/when you find something you like better for pinholing. As a bonus, if the shutter has slow speeds you might find them useful with fast film in bright sun, and the B and/or T settings are much easier to use for speeds under 1 second than a lens cap, even if the slowest timed speed is something like 1/25 (and 1/4 or 1/2 second isn't out of the realm of possibility with fast film at around f/256).