4x5 drum development questions

[dealy663]

Hi,

Well I went ahead and got myself a 4x5 Pacemaker Speed Graphic, and am now having some trouble trying to figure out how to handle development myself. After reading on the largeformatphotography.info site about using Unicolor drum and roller I thought that sounded about right for me. I was able to secure a Uniroller but actually finding an 8x10 Unidrum has proven to be quite difficult.

Today I walked into a local camera store and found a Chromega 8x10 print processing drum so I bought it. This drum has three cylindrical tubes which run down its length and in between which you wedge the print/film. These are similar to the v-ridges in the Unicolor drum. The problem that I'm concerned about with this Chromega drum is that there are no ridges along the walls of the drum, so the backside of the film can touch the walls.

So I'm wondering if this is ok for drum development, or will it cause problems with not enough of the chemicals reaching the back side of the film. Does anyone have any thoughts about this?

I noticed that in the manual for the BTZS tubes it looks like the film is actually touching the walls of the tube, so maybe this is ok??

Thanks in advance, Derek

 

[sanking]

Hi,

Well I went ahead and got myself a 4x5 Pacemaker Speed Graphic, and am now having some trouble trying to figure out how to handle development myself. After reading on the largeformatphotography.info site about using Unicolor drum and roller I thought that sounded about right for me. I was able to secure a Uniroller but actually finding an 8x10 Unidrum has proven to be quite difficult.

Today I walked into a local camera store and found a Chromega 8x10 print processing drum so I bought it. This drum has three cylindrical tubes which run down its length and in between which you wedge the print/film. These are similar to the v-ridges in the Unicolor drum. The problem that I'm concerned about with this Chromega drum is that there are no ridges along the walls of the drum, so the backside of the film can touch the walls.

So I'm wondering if this is ok for drum development, or will it cause problems with not enough of the chemicals reaching the back side of the film. Does anyone have any thoughts about this?

I noticed that in the manual for the BTZS tubes it looks like the film is actually touching the walls of the tube, so maybe this is ok??

Thanks in advance, Derek

This drum should work fine, and you are lucky to have the dividers.

For various reasons I recommend a pre-soak of five minutes when processing in tubes and drum. If you do this I think you will get good negatives.

But how do you plan to rotate the drum? On a motor base or by hand?

Sandy

 

[dealy663]

I have a Uniroller base, which automatically reverses itself every 1.5 revolutions or so.

Derek

 

[RichSBV]

I don't do 4x5 in drums, but I do my 8x10's in Western print drums on a reversing motor base.

You didn't say what developer you'll use... I wouldn't know if it would make a difference> Some say yes, some no???

Anyway, when I first started 8x10 drum development, the toughest question to get answered was development time. That's because of the constant aggitation. I got an idea of 10 to 15 percent off the recommended times and tried that.

I now develop at roughly 15% less time than recommended for my Ilford FP4 and HP5 with D76 straight. I do NOT presoak and have had pretty much perfect results. I do tend to over develop a bit thought which is good for my contact prints... Some people like D76 at 1:1, but I've heard it's not a good idea in a rotary drum?

I don't know the specifics of your drum, but the process itself is great. Just remember to knock off the 10-20% time and you should be happy with the results.

 

[L Gebhardt]

The film will be fine with the back touching the walls. All of the dye on the back may not come off, but a separate wash out of the drum should fix this.

 

[Konical]

Good Morning, Derek,

I have used a Chromega drum for decades to process thousands of sheets of 4 x 5 film. I have found it to be problem-free. My drum, however, does have three slightly-raised ribs running the length of the drum interior as well as the raised tracks into which the ribs are inserted to accomodate various film sizes. Solutions apparently have no difficulty reaching the base side of the film in my drum, but, as indicated in one of the posts above, removing any remnants of the anti-halation backing is a simple matter anyway. I agree with Sandy that a pre-soak is a good idea.

Konical

 

[dealy663]

Well as far as developer is concerned I've only used D-76 so far with my 35mm and 120 films. I've taken to using it diluted 1:1 and have liked the results for my inversion agitation in a Jobo 1510.

I was already aware of the need to reduce my development time because of the constant agitation. In the future I may try other developers, but right now I have several packets of D-76 lying around, along with a box of TMax 100 4x5 film that I'm looking forward to trying.

This is all sounding like I have everything needed to give it a go this weekend.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Derek

 

[BradS]

I've actually been processing individual sheets of 4x5 in a Paterson Super System 4 tank (yes, the same one I use for 35mm). The key is to put the film in the tank with the emulsion side facing inwards. If the emulsion side faces the wall it will get scratched.

 

[MattCarey]

I've actually been processing individual sheets of 4x5 in a Paterson Super System 4 tank (yes, the same one I use for 35mm). The key is to put the film in the tank with the emulsion side facing inwards. If the emulsion side faces the wall it will get scratched.

I tried something like this once with not-so-good results. I tried to put 2 negatives in the tank. I didn't put a lot of developer in. They came loose from the wall and didn't get an even develop. They also scratched eachother.

I thought of using some Kapton dots (tape) to stick the negatives down. I'll give it a try again.

Matt

 

[BradS]

I tried something like this once with not-so-good results. I tried to put 2 negatives in the tank. I didn't put a lot of developer in. They came loose from the wall and didn't get an even develop. They also scratched eachother.

I thought of using some Kapton dots (tape) to stick the negatives down. I'll give it a try again.

Matt

Matt, I do only one at a time...couldn't figure out a good way to keep two sheets of film from...getting cozy with one another. Also have to fill the Paterson tank to almost overflowing. I mix up 800ml of HC-110D (20ml HC-110 concentrate + 780ml water) and pour almost all of it in.

 

[MattCarey]

Matt, I do only one at a time...couldn't figure out a good way to keep two sheets of film from...getting cozy with one another.

That's where the Kapton dots come in. I was thinking of taping the negatives to the walls of the tank. Kapton is pretty darned inert, I don't think it or the glue should give much trouble.

Kapton tape could also be used (and is cheaper), but the dots are very convenient.

Matt

 

[P C Headland]

I tried something like this once with not-so-good results. I tried to put 2 negatives in the tank. I didn't put a lot of developer in. They came loose from the wall and didn't get an even develop. They also scratched eachother.

Matt

You can also use elastic bands around the film. Use one that will leave the film in a U shape or slightly closed U. Just remember, emulsion side in. Do a search on the net for taco method for further information.

Some anti-halation layer may be left on the film, but a final rinse outside the tube/tank fixes this. I use this method to develop 9x12cm and 4x5 in my 120 tank. I can fit up to four sheets like this.

Paul

 

[MikeS]

Matt, I do only one at a time...couldn't figure out a good way to keep two sheets of film from...getting cozy with one another. Also have to fill the Paterson tank to almost overflowing. I mix up 800ml of HC-110D (20ml HC-110 concentrate + 780ml water) and pour almost all of it in.

Stop putting male & female film in the same tank!

-Mike

 

[Calamity Jane]

Party pooper!

 

[BradS]

Stop putting male & female film in the same tank!

-Mike

9 months stand development....
"Hey, wait a minute...I know I only put two sheets in this tank...what's this little sheet?"

 

[k_jupiter]

On the use of the Unicolor type drum. I use mine for 5x7, Pyrocat-HD. Works great first time everytime. Since HD was made for drum development, the time thing is easy. Your D76 should work well with it also.

For 4x5 (and 3x4 and 2x3) I use the Patterson, I take out the reels, and put in four tubes made from flourescent light protector tubes. They bend a bit and will all fit around the Patterson's center tube. I then process inversion style like it was roll film, works great. Getting dye off the backs of some films can be a PITA. Lots of wash. I have occasionally resorted to soaking in trays before I start and that helps a lot. Just one messy prestep though.

If you use BTZS type tubes, placing a sheet of nylon window screen behind each film works well to get chemicals to the backside.


tim in san jose