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When I took slides with the Jiffy Calculator with Kodachrome and Ektachrome one would go green and and the other red from reciprocity failure. I do not remember which went which way for sure, but I think Kodachrome would go green and Ektachrome red.

Highly recommended by many David Odess. Hasselblad recalibrated my 45 degree PME light meter and they did a good job. KEH CLA'd my recently bought from them, which required a complete tear down and recollumnation. They did a great job. Most of my Hasselblad work has been done by Michael at...

Thank you. I am looking for replenished XTOL and Pyrocat-HD times for Delta 3200 in a Jobo processor. My experience is that XTOL 1:1 standard development times are the right time for replenished XTOL Jobo development times.

I was in a Derecho a few years ago in Virginia. It could do a lot of damage.

That is what I use.

Oh they are special reels, not the standard. Thanks but that is a bit rich for me. Steve

Pondering: Will Hewes reels work in the Jobo 1500 tanks? If so that would be the best of both worlds. Anyone have experience with that? I will have to check that out.

How clever!

+1,000,000

The OP has done an interest set of comparison tests, I note that the Rollei-HFT Planar has sharper focus on the corners and IMNOHO* sharper focus in the center. * IMNOHO ==> In My No So Humble Opinion

I always considered the scales a big plus for the C330. It encourages buying the Paraminder, using a tripod and take photographs of flowers.

Kodak Portra 400 has accurate skin colors, wide exposure latitude and very forgiving.

The only thing that works is feeding the GAS. Buy now before the prices go up.

Use the bayonet mount, there are still B50 filters around.

Actually much more.

Shipping may be too high to the EU but see what FreeStyle has. https://www.freestylephoto.biz/

PhotoFlo is only for black & white negative. Color uses stabilizer.

Night photography: I started using this in 1963 with slides and it has never failed me. http://f-sunny.com/night-exposures-in-a-jiffy/ https://www.cppdh.org/download/jiffy-calculator-for-night-light-exposures.pdf https://www.flickr.com/photos/46322625@N05/30151457250

If you are going to frequent this website you might as well admit to yourself that you are going to start with 35mm and grow to medium format [MF] and 4"x5" [LF] and maybe even larger. Many here got pulled in just as I was.

If you can find them: Kodak UltraColor and Kodak VividColor, otherwise try Ektar 100.

If you treat cameras carefully and with respect the F100 is the best film camera Nikon built, but the door latch can be susceptible to breakage.

I use R25, R29 and 720 filters for infrared film. I use ISO 400 [box speed] for HIE and then adjusted for the filter factor. I cannot give advice on the ISO for old infrared film nor how to change development for film age. Be careful about advice here on this subject. When it was announced...

:redface::redface::redface::redface::redface:

Not a light leak per se, rather a shutter problem. Time for a CLA.

I use whatever I have. Both Ilford MG RC Glossy and Ilford MG WT FB papers work well.

First of all the Night Exposure Scale states that the EV is for ISO 100. Secondly Hasselblad and other cameras are designed with the assumption that the ISO is 100. Therefore when I use my Pentax Digital Spot Meter at ISO 400, I take the EV from the meter and put that EV on the Zone Scale, and...

Thank you.

It sound like a great way to loose lots of negatives.

What is the guidance for maximum exposure time versus focal length to avoid star trails, i.e. no apparent star motion?

The EV scales are only good for ISO 100. If your film speed is different, first set the shutter speed and f/stop, then read the EV and do all EV adjustments AFTER.