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One cannot say that the camera does not matter. Yes any 35mm camera from the second half of the 20th century will take a very serviceable photograph of most subject. Add a faster lens, better lens, more shutter speeds, change focal lengths, format shape, ... will add to the capabilities...

I use that and the Pentax Digital Spot meter in addition to meters in the cameras, but if I have a meterless camera I use hte Sekonic or want to get more shadow detail I use the Spot Meter.

I have shot Portra 400, VC 400 and UltraColor 400 that were over 11 years old but kept in the freezer the whole time at box speed without ever having a problem. Same results for black & white. Now if they were laying around in the attic or car glove box MMV

Only if you shoot yourself in the foot when you draw your gun from the holster.

I disagree, the rotation speed should be based on the film size. I use 'P' for 135 and 120 and '4' for 4"x5" per Jobo instructions.

Black & white: first choice is Kodak Tri-X 400 @ 400, second is Ilford HP5 @400. Color: Kodak Portra 400 @ 400.

I switched to Dektol after using various other developer because I can eliminate on variable by timing the development. All the paper developer are susceptible to failure due to oxygen, time, etc and tend to die off after a short time.

Exactly. The manufacturer has tested their filters, while the datasheet are using generic filters. Even if a filter factor is off, it will be off by less than half an f/stop and that is well within the range of negative films.

That is my experience too. But again when I am using the R29 and 720 [R72] filters the sun is at my back for the best infrared exposures and the lens hood in not needed.

As a rule of thumb two or more stops down from full open and the sweet spot for most lenses is f/8 to f/11. The smaller apertures than those can start to have diffraction creeping in.

Is there a way you can make your book directly available via the Classified Ads?

Congratulations Matt!

I could afford the Hasselblad when I started buy the system in 2007 and never looked back. I am not an imposter, I use the Hasselblads.

Except my father used a Mamiya C330 which I traded in for the Hasselblad when they prices were at an all time low in 2007.

The OP has not been seen nor heard from for years. IIRC he left in a huff an burned bridges as he left.

ON hand or on ones hand? We have to get a grip.

I know that this is a bit radical, but I use my cell phone for telephone calls. Remember they came before texting.

What about K-Y jelly instead of Vaseline?

What about ending sentences with prepositions? By the way have you ever tired to split an infinite? It is not easy to. :tongue:

If I use the R29 or 720 filters, otherwise I almost always use lens hoods. But then when I am shooting infrared film, the sun is behind me for the best wood effect.

+1

I still remember the almost like wax paper stiff toilet paper in Heathrow airport. If felt like I was wiping myself with a hand full of razor blades.

I am not going to buy a second cell phone so that I can do that. I will stick to the 20mm lens, WideLux F7, SWC and Fisheye for super wide photographs.

I have never had uneven development in the Jobo processor. Then again I presoak all films except Kodak Tri-X when developing with XTOL or replenished XTOL.

I agree. Since I use infrared film for landscapes and more distant subject and since I use smaller f/stops [f/8 or smaller] the depth of field is great enough that I do not have to correct the focus. Besides if I use the 720 [R72] I have to use a tripod to compose properly, I might as well us...

I always found the 35mm lens to be to close to the 50mm and even the 58mm lenses. My first choice for wide angle is the28mm lens, hence preferring the 50mm to the 60mm Hasselblad lenses.

Also a good way to scratch the lens.

None of mine work with the step up adapters.

Maybe we should go back to splitting infinitives.