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This is what I use https://www.freestylephoto.biz/112082-Japan-Camera-Hunter-120-Film-Hard-Case-Black-Holds-5-Rolls-of-120

The film was exposed one f/stop from box speed which is well within the exposure latitude of the film. Develop normally.

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

The repair cost almost as much as getting a new used lens, with unknown condition. Now I have a lens which was rebuilt by Hasselblad and warranty.

Something about a shaft that was worn out.

I had this problem about a year ago. Intermittently the 50mm lens would sound like it fired, but did not. The Samys' Hasselblad repairman instead of doing the CLA himself sent it off for a full overhaul. It seems that my lens had heavy use and wear from the previous owner and Hasselblad...

Half an f/stop.

I have had this problem. Load the film into a tank, then after the tank is closed up, look at the paper backing and then you will know which film it is.

I would suggest because there is a predominance of white that you use an incident meter. This is the white cat on a white rug photograph or conversely a black cat on a pile of coal, so get the ambient light reading for the exposure rather than an incident light reading.

So do I.

Not for those of us who actually know what we are doing. We only do it when there some extra exposures would be good practice. I do it rarely.

Graphic Graflex made something like that. It is called a Graflex. http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Graflex_reflex_models

I use a timer for the exposure while using a metronome for burning burning and dodging. Remember to start counting at zero when you begin so that you correctly count the seconds.

That sounds like a good practice. I will adopt it. Thank you.

The two readings are aimed in different directions for starters. It is not unusual for them to not match, however they should be close.

You are just wrong on so many points, ideas, ... you really should just start your life over. Go back to the beginning.

It is he only hing he does.

Make that a spot meter with filter factor and Zone Systems features.

I have the Jobo 3010 Expert Drum which has five cylindrical holes for ten sheets of 4"x5" film. It is well worth the cost which gets amortized over the years with properly developed spot free, streak free, film. Come on you just know that deep in your heart you want the same thing for your...

It is called Kodak Portra 800. Aren't you glad you asked?

I will provide the page number, ... when I get back home. It is for Tri-X in XTOL only.

Use a spot meter to read the darkest shadows in which you want details and set that in Zone 2 or Zone 3. In other words take that exposure and open reduce the exposure by two or three stops[ Non Zone Speak].

I do not shoot images now, I only take photographs. I did imaging when I worked with spacecraft and did remote sensing.

I was about to type, ask PE.

The Rotary Processor Manual, John Tinsley, late confirmed by Kodak.

I would have said, "There is just something about "classic" black and white photographs."

Keep it, it is good. Besides it adds color to your work. The only film that Kodak [and Jobo] warns against prewashing with XTOL it Tri-X.

The proper name for the tool in the first photograph is Easy Out.

Thank you so much.

This is very sad. He was always responsive and helpful to all and he treated everyone with great respect. There were never dumb questions, he always answered with kindness. Words cannot convey my profound sadness and lose. It is now to us to carry on his memory and knowledge to the world.