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That is not true if some developer is carried over to the fixer. You are talking about perfect conditions which cannot be blithely assumed in real world situations.

I clean the reels after each you. That is what is called good lab technique.

Please do not confuse 138S with facts, that only provokes him.

Do not estimate that your light meter is "fairly accurate based on comparisons with my K1000 and at times with the cds meter is some of the Minolta 16 (qt and MG-S)", get it calibrated and save yourself aggravation. Use more agitation. Then if that is not enough, longer processing.

The demand is such now that KEH rarely has Hasselblad lenses to offer.

Exceptions prove the rule. AND they are exceptions.

Thank you I just order rings and grease for my Nikonos II. Now I have to get it apart, cleaned up, rings greased and installed.

Are those also the sized for Nikonos II?

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

Thank you

Great, now I can move on.

Safe Light Test In total darkness take out a sheet of paper an place it emulsion side up. Place an object such as coins on the paper. Put away the package or box of paper. Turn on the safe light for 30 seconds. Turn off the safe light. Develop the paper. If the paper is darker...

Clipping the corners of 135 and120 film before loading on to reels solves some of the loading problems such as film sticking at the point the film is half way loading on to the reel.

I use water as a stop for pyro and then TF4 or TF5. Water stop is used for TF4 and TF5 but this is way beyond what the OP is doing. By bring up TF4 and TF5 you are adding confusion to someone just starting in darkroom work and causing damage to the OP and other beginners. Water can be used as...

You can use your iPhone and use Clock. Set the screen to red and you have your darkroom timer. If you receive a call in the darkroom it will light up red and not interfere with our work.

I have always used stop bath for film and paper. It stops the development completely and extends the life of the fixer. I worked at Kodak and saw many studies with testing on stop bath and read them. The short version is use stop bath and it is not expensive. Take the time to search Photrio...

Let us know your progress so we can coach you through your work. All of us started where you are and have had the same problems.

Stop down the lens to a smaller aperture f/8 to f/22 range. Does your enlarger have more than one brightness level? If so use the dimmer range.

When I photographed while skiing I did not have an incident light meter, so I would take off my glove and use the through the lens light meter to get a reading off my hand. I would then take that reading and open on f/stop for my camera settings.

I do not have any dreams of film raising back to its former glory. I will just enjoy any increase in popularity and availability.

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

Not today, Saturday, call B&H and ask what they recommend.

Until you have a problem on the ship and then it is too late. I have decades of having special CLAs and the cameras always worked well at normal temperatures. My cameras worked for temperatures as low as -35 degress F which is the lowest I ever used camera.

A little bleach in the darkroom goes a long way to improve flat lighting on an overcast snowy day.

I just do not use the Hasselblad for close ups like I do with a Nikon AF macro zoom and I very rarely do perspective correction [one time with a Speed Graphic and it was successful]. Also I just bought a f/3.5 28mm PC lens] for the Nikons. So my Kodak enabler buddy convinced me to pass on...

With all infrared film I have found use the light meter set to box speed then adjust the exposure for the filter correction [R23, R25, R29, 720] and develop normally with your developer-drug of choice [I use replenished XTOL] produces great prints.

Nice job printing that. The high lights can easily go gray and can be hard to keep white.

I came within millimeters of buying this since I have five lenses that I could use with it. Someone hurry up and jump in before I have fifteenth thoughts!

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