Recent content by Umberto

Correct. This is because it's much more difficult to remove silver compounds than residuals of ammonium thiosulfate. As Steve Anchell writes on "The Darkroom Cookbook": "Improper fixing is probably the major cause of stains in toned prints. An exhausted fixing bath contains insoluble silver...

I don't think an extended wash can compensate an improper fixing. If the silver concentration in fixer is too high, the paper retains silver compounds. These can't be washed away as ammonium thiosulfate.

True indeed. I don't know the specific formulation of Ilford Washaid, but I think it's not that far from the classic HCA formula essentially based in sodium sulphite. However I tend to be skeptic about this: the Ilford's document "Processing B&W Paper" which Miha refers to is dated 2001, while...

This is a very interesting clarification, because I've always seen discordant statements by different manufactures. For example, Ilford and Compard declare the same capacity for different dilutions confirming your observations, while Adox not. However, knowing this helps a lot. In the past I've...

Ilford's procedure is not exclusive, it can be followed with any similar product. Thiosulfate ammonium based rapid fixers are basically the same thing.

Doremus, thanks again for you really informative contributions. I can also use this procedure with Adofix Plus as well as with other rapid fixers based on ammonium thiosulfate, right? In the 1+9 dilution which is the capacity of the first fixer before being replaced? I suppose it's not the same...

Doremus, thanks for your really informative response. I have always followed all the information you mentioned. I also try not to exceed so much the shelf life of the concentrate fixer over the recommended times: Adox states three months since the bottle is opened, there have been times I used...

So in this case what caused the damage? The remaining silver halides not properly fixed, reacting to indirect light exposure in time?

I didn't know about that, I've always thought that 60 seconds was enough for FB paper if processed at the strongest dilution like 1+4. Even Ilford in in the Rapid Fixer data sheet refers to these times.

I use Adox Fixer at film strenght 1+4. For this dilution the recommended time for FB paper is 60/80 seconds.

Hello, I just noticed this in a FB print I made about a year and a half ago, which passed the time since then hanged on the wall. I'm supposed to think the yellowish dots started to appear in the top right side of the image, then they spread in other areas. I observed the dots are light...

Thanks Ariston! Same for me, I think 6x7 it's the best image format. I shoot much more with my Pentax 67, the Hasselblad is from my father's collection so even if I don't use it so often I am still attached to it.

Hello all! I am from Italy and It's been five years since when I've gone full analog. I've set up a complete darkroom to process black and white photography. I shoot medium format with a Pentax 67 and an Hasselblad 500 C/M, and 35mm with the Leica M system. My favorite format is 6x7.