Recent content by RedSun

Just wonder what you have been using since 2007/8?

You can. But I do not want to keep just one BW developer for all my films. I may use D-76, or D-76 diluted. Or I may use Rodinal, HC-110, or T-max developer. C-41 is a totally different story. All the C-41 variants are about the same. We also do not dilute the chemicals as BW developers do.

BW chemicals are relatively cheap. Most people do not keep a replenishment system. It is just too much work to keep it running. Replenishment system is mostly for people who have a steady work flow. People also want to use different developers for different kinds of films. But color C-41 is...

I do not need to have neutral grey. As long as the final prints have some characteristic to it. I just somehow have more BW films than color films to print.

I have some expired color paper Fuji Crystal Archive Super Type C. I just wonder what it looks if I print BW film on it. I can still process with RA-4. I can use with either color head or the VCCE head. I only want B/W prints.

you can also use patching mess sheet for flat surface.

I carry a Sinar F2. No problem. Two lenses, a few film holders. Gitzo 3530 tripod.

It is the SP blix. I've opened a new bottle that looks good.

I have opened RA-4 blix concentrate that has formed residual all round the original bottle. It was opened 5 years ago. Do we think it is good or bad?

Yes, particularly if people use a replenishment system and re-use the chemicals. The bleach, even the developer can get really dark.

The color chemicals can be very nasty with all the dye etc. Over time, the reels are all dark and can't be cleaned. Also color film normally runs the stabllizer with the reel and can make the reel hard to load film. I get multiple reels. They do not last forever.

Yes, it is better to over-wind the first frame. The camera won't allow more frame after the it passes its frame max.

I googled more about this, and I see a lot of original neg scans are cyan or blue tint color. I guess this is how scanners do it with the strips. Thx for the help. Now I'll keep a good record and body the chemicals....

The MF film is Fuji Pro 160S. It is not old. The actual film looks good to me. The one with the bad fixer is really dark.

Yes, thanks. This is what I did yesterday evening. The fixer working solution has quite a bit dark residual at the bottom. Now the film base is clear. Now the only thing is that, the film has some kind of color tint. Cyan tint? I think that may be scanner tint, not film. Film scan is...