Recent content by Quiver2

Strange that no one has mentioned caffenol as a developer. Use the formula for slow films on a high speed film e.g. 400 or greater. The Arista/Fomapan films work for this. Edit note: Curse you autocorrect!

This has been all over YouTube and I imagine other forums for a couple of days as a leak, but today I got an email from freestyle making it official. Kodak has brought the Kodacolor Brand back, and somehow it doesn't seem to be associated with Alaris. The brand is registered by Eastman Kodak...

Don't forget that you're then going to sell it at Five Below.

Um, aside from being hydrophilic how is sodium nitrate different from potassium nitrate? I'd think that they could both be used as an oxidizer, and that has a bunch of "up to no good" potential.

No experience with x-ray film, but I did shoot the old Arista in 120 back when Formapan was still using that oh so wonderful and never sufficiently cursed curly blue film base. Never seen any effect of the color when using it with VC papers.

A foil label would also do it. As a home user I've been using a hole punch and aluminum duct tape to make a dz code label for my bulk load film.

Ah, sorry I was speaking from my own experience. I scratch mix both C-41 and ECN-2 so I have separate baths for each step. So in my case only the developer and the prebath was different.

If you already develop for C-41 then you only need to add two bottles. One for the prewash to remove the remjet, and the ECN-2 developer. Everything else is the same or so similar to not matter for home or still photography use.

I think the industry has answered this. There is a reason the DX coding only goes up to 42 exposures.

What film are you using? Is it a film normally used in camera or is it a "process" film, a film used for making internegatives or projection prints? I ask as my attempt using this method failed when I tried to use ECP-2 projection film as a black and white reversal film. It seems that this film...

I use the home darkroom. It can commonly be found in the basement, that bathroom no one uses, or that weird closet that leads to an alternate world.

The only thing that I could think of for this general fog eliminating all other causes and conditions such as age, heat, and chemical fogging is either light exposure or radiation. Is the film stored in a basement? If it is please ease my mind and yours, by getting a radon detection kit.

In general private equity groups exist to suck the resources from a company like a vampire leaving behind a desiccated husk behind. EK better start looking at how Harman handles distribution, and come up with a plan for the eventual dissolution of Alaris.

Have you looked at Kodak Color plus 200? It has less saturation than other offerings from Kodak.

Surprised that you didn't have any reticulation in your film. I used full hot water for my rinses when doing ecn-2, had fine marks throughout my images. Started to temper my rinse water and the problem went away.