Recent content by j_landecker

I've experienced this with some backs. As you say, it seems like the film starts to track towards one side of the film spool as it winds on. On the back that was the worst the paper backing would become noticeably frayed on one edge from pushing against the flange of the spool. I've examined...

SOLD!

I have for sale a Hasselblad PME 3 prism in good working condition. All glass is clean and clear. Readings seem accurate - agrees within 1/2 stop with another prism I have. The label on the bottom says "Adjusted to focusing screen no. 42165", which I believe is the Acute Matte. Adjusting levers...

SOLD!

I have for sale what could best be described as a "user" CF 60mm... Cosmetically, it's pretty ugly The rear element has a scratch (see red arrow in pic). The good news is that I was never able to see any effect from flare on film, probably because it's near the outer edge of the glass. I've...

I'm not a big fan of the left hand grip, which I find overly bulky and makes the camera uncomfortable to carry as the thick bottom bar bumps against the body. This is my solution (shown on a Super) for a right hand grip... It allows a variety of grip positions, and I can wind using my thumb and...

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Well, with film in the back, you shouldn't need to use the override lever. You should be able to wind, cock the shutter, and then shoot using the button. Glad you figured it out though - with 3 backs doing the same there had to be a simple explanation. Because it's a modular system without...

Another point - for the override to work, the lever needs to be held to the left as you start to press the shutter button. Once the button is part way down, you can let go of the lever.

When my back is wound to a new exposure, the interlock lever does indeed sit to the left, and with no film it is in the middle. I assume you're doing this without the cable release connected to a lens (which needs to be cocked). If all else fails, you might need to take the top cover off the...

There is an interlock which is supposed to release the shutter button only once on each exposure to prevent double exposure. You may need to have the cable inserted for this to work. There is no coupling with the camera body. I believe you can override the interlock by moving the wind release...

I would agree with the loose roll assessment. Your first picture shows a roll of Ultra EDU 400, which I have found to always get some light leaks on the edges after unloading, no matter how tightly the film is rolled. Not as bad as your example, but often intruding into the image area. Now I try...

After the rubber split on my CF100mm, the 3D printer came to the rescue! Styled after the newer CFi lenses' rings, although the rubber is not as soft as those. It's still grippy enough and I like the feel of the larger diameter over the original.

The problem with using tape or tracing paper alone is that, unless you can tension it somehow, it will bow and give you inaccurate results. It's better to use an old focusing screen or piece of ground glass cut to the same width as the film to fit on the film rails. A quick way to do this would...

Further on down in the next post, he says "I understand that 72mm and 300mm glass is also available as a special order".