Recent content by Brent Waterworth

Update - located the battery on the motherboard but having issues sourcing this type of battery: “2/3 subc 1.2v NiCd 650mAh” Can i just a non 2/3 version & a higher mAh? Example: I found a “Tenergy NiCd Sub C 2200mAh battery - not 2/3 + a higher mAh

Having troubles with my LCD as well - pretty much the same as OP. Can somebody tell me (or show me with a photo) where the battery is located on the control panel? I researched the batteries people have mentioned in here & im seeing all sorts of shapes/sizes on Google…none of which are looking...

No W/D or Replenishment units attached - just the CP-31 main body. I can literally hear the clicking coming from inside the area where the exposed driveshaft enters the hole that goes inside of the plastic covering (right nearby the power switch sharing that same 90° corner). so yea i agree...

I wish I could attach videos here but they’re too large. i ran it without the racks as i was cleaning it after a session (tanks filled with water) & the noise is reduced down to a faint clicking sound, about the same cadence/time frame as the loud *clank* sounds. my guess is that the tension...

Sounds good i’ll open it up & take a look around. I guess my last question for now is - I know this machine is not supposed to be turned on without liquid in the baths allowing fluid to flow through the system, as continuous airflow can harm it…if i need to power it on once it’s opened up to see...

Hey George thanks for the reply with the photo, really appreciate it. Is that the same way you would get into the area to access the driveshaft?

I was curious if anyone is familiar with taking apart the machine? I’m experiencing an issue with my CP31 & it will require me to open it up & take a look inside. It’s been making a crunching sound every few minutes - but started out every 20-30min…so it’s getting worse. all of the gears on...

Edit: attaching photos of the prints. Waited until tonight for the machine to cool off & did another test run & the results are still the same. You'll notice one of the faulty prints is brighter & even more orangey - this was a test with a new lamp in the head.

Hey guys tapping back in & had a question: I've been printing away the last 1-2 months using the replenishment method (100ml every 10 8x10 prints) & have had success generally speaking with EQ operating properly & chemistry seemingly fine) but still in the thick of the learning process &...

I really appreciate this - thank you. I’ve been pretty good about doing everything almost the same except using soap. I’ve seen there used to be a bottled formula cleaner for the units which is for sure out of production by now & have read people using a vinegar based cleaning solution? my...

would love some insight on this. i’ve been flushing my cp-31 out with water but would love some additional care for longevity. thanks, -b

thanks for the suggestion Koraks. i’ve found the need & benefit of seeing what the print looks like either neutralized (or where i’m happy with it) prior to pre-flashing - when experimenting w/ different color hues. for me, i use the pre-flash a ‘cherry on top’ & can only determine what...

that particular “Paper Flasher” is only going to output one specific light with no ability to use different tonality hue change the way you can if you were using an actual color enlarger with the CMY channels. (you won’t be able to alter color when pre-flashing.) most people have a dedicated...

you’re 100% right. if you want to use different colors with your tones, you’ll either need a 2nd enlarger (or) do what i have been doing & pre-flash paper prior to your final prints. i’ve got a system down now but it was tedious for sure at the beginning.

update: after further researching i’ve gotten some answers but there’s still some uncertainty - but i figure that will be resolved with experimentation in the darkroom. for anyone that cares, i found & purchased this pre-flash unit so i don’t have to pre-flash a bunch of paper prior to print...