I shot a family reunion, group panoramic photo last weekend. My family, my mom's side, the Adams and the Simpsons in Wabash IN. Here's the pic: http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00P/00PvGq-51295584.jpg What I'll share here (the paint-by-number part) is that the shot was set-up entirely with drafting skills and spreadsheets. I don't think I even looked through the viewfinder before taking it. Although I did get worried a second after, moved the camera back a foot, and took a second shot. Then another foot back, and a third (final) shot. No need - the first one was *the one*. Explanation: I've been frustrated with my Widelux FV where the viewfinder is concerned. It's inaccurate, very much so. It doesn't accurately show as much image as will be in the finished image. Finally after over 2 years of ownership, I decided to make the best of it, and solve the issue, at least when shooting groups in an arc. I made a pair of spreadsheets. The first was a spreadsheet that for a subject of known height and distance, would give me what the image height would be on film. This confirmed that at 11' (the fixed-focus distance of my WL), an adult human would show up from head to toe. Next spreadsheet was how long an arc would be, at R11', and what the chord would be from one arc endpoint to the other (23' arc length, 19' chord length). This data allowed me to use old-fashioned drafting skills, an orange string, stake, and surveyor's rule to lay out exactly where things went. I didn't test ahead of time, as I don't have access to a group whenever I want. Instead I volunteered my photo skills at an upcoming family reunion, offering to shoot a group pano, using them as guineau pigs, and make the resulting pics available for sale to anybody after. If no sales, no harm, no foul - I'd end with a nice pic for my portfolio. Anyway, worked like a charm; almost perfectly. The pic you see is slightly cropped at the sides, cropped a bit at top, and not at all at the bottom. Were I doing it again, I'd look through the viewfinder once to aim the center of the viewfinder at people's bellies / belts, just to get the toes off the bottom of the pic. OTOH, I like the pavillion in the back - that's where the reunion was, so it's fitting. But the best news: a buddy (Patrick Dempsey on Photo.net) and I came up with a way to set this shot up *fast.* Requires 4 stakes, and 6 pieces of rope a bit more than 11' long. He gave me the nudge, after reading about my spreadsheet for the 11' arc, arc length, and cord. Together we refined the following concept: Designate one stake as the tripod stake (pt. A), and tie 4 of the 11' pieces of rope to it. Designate / mark another stake as the midpoint of the arc (pt. B), and tie the other end of one of the ropes to it. The last two stakes are the endpoints of the arc (pts. C & D); tie them to the pt. B stake with 11' rope. What we'll end up with is a pair of 11' equilateral triangles, back to back. Then that 6th piece of 11' rope will be a measuring device to double-check distance, tie it to the tripod stake. Now tap in the tripod stake. Pull the arc midpoint stake taut, 11' away, and tap it in. Now pull one of the remaining two stakes so the ropes are taut to one side, and tap it in. Do the same on the opposite side of Line AB, and tap that stake in. In about a minute, you've defined the tripod point, arc endpoints and arc midpoint. Explain the process to the group as you go, that they're going to be posed in an arc roughly along BC and BD. Then pose the people along Lines BC and BD, and finally use that 6th piece of 11' rope tied to the tripod stake to fine-tune their position into a perfect arc. Coach the group on smiles and what to do with their hands, level the camera, verify the camera is aimed a hair down at bellies / belts instead of at eyes, have assistant pull stakes and get them out of pic, and take the shot. Done. Quick, fast, easy; and hard to make a drafting mistake, even under the pressure of setting this up, once the tool above is made (in the calm comfort of your living room, no pressure there). Hope this helps somebody. Once you've got the numbers of where your swing-lens camera is focused to, and can create the spreadsheet, the above info would work for a Noblex or Horizon owner, too.