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Discussion in 'Darkroom Equipment' started by Denis R, Jan 30, 2010.
where -o- where did it go...
how to get it back?
which tools work good?
Buy one of these http://www.freestylephoto.biz/122166-Arista-Metal-Film-Retriever.
I assume you're referring to a 35mm canister. I have the JOBO film picker and it works well. But I found out that commercial photo finishing labs may be willing to pull a leader for you if you're traveling or in a hurry. I got a CVS drugstore to pull one for me recently in Indiana. No charge.
I've a Hama brand film retriever bought a few years ago. And I was subsequently given an Ilford one (almost identical). I don't think Ilford make them now but I've seen both on Ebay for a $ or 2.
Both work fine, just take a little patience at first, then easy when you get the knack.
The film licking trick also works quite well, that's what I use...if you can't find one of those film retriever thingies...
If the film is exposed already, you don't need to worry about it. If you process it yourself, just use a bottle opener to open lift the top lid of the can, or use your fingers to force the slit apart and rip the can open. If a lab processes your film, they'll do the same.
If I want to get at the film for development, I just pry off the end cap of the cartridge. One less chance to scratch the film.
If your 35 mm film is not (entirely -) exposed yet, and you might have lost the leader, the you just go to a one hour lab and ask the to retrieve the leader which they are so used to do, if they are kind enough to help you of course
I had made up a 12x test roll of exposed film to test shutter function, spool loading, etc.
bought the metal type as in patent 4047653
Where did you get this?
B&H, Calumet, Freestyle, even my local store carries these in stock. They are very common.
Where have they gone? How many were there? I must find them, for I am their leader!
Sorry, with the "lost leader" header, I couldn't resist.
Can't say this will work for you but it did for me. Had no money when in college.
At a sporting event, I usually switched films. Only one camera body!
Wound the film too far. Ended up in the cassette! What to do?
Took a young girls emory board, made out of cardboard or some thick paper stuff with grit that's used to file fingernails. This can ruin the emory board but provides an opportunity for conversation!
Masking tape, maybe 5 or 6 inches, put it on the emory board with sticky side out.
Hand wound the film clockwise grasping the shaft sticking out to get the film close to the opening. Had to bend the opening a wee bit. Thinking did I do it too much, then a bunch of dark no images on the film. Won't know til I develop it. Better get some good story down just in case!
Stuck the emory board inside. Have to bend it to get it to work. Enough masking tape on it so as I can hold it. It's sticky!
Work it inside. After a couple of tries, voila! The leader comes out.
Everything turned out just fine.
Thought I would tell you my experience.
I was given a Konica one a few years ago, that uses a similar principle to the Metal one posted above. Works everytime (as long as you can hear the click as you wind the film passed). Much better then the Harma one that I had.
I cut a 1/2" wide piece of 4x5 film (I have lots of dead film) , stick a piece of two sided tape on the end, and feed it into the cassette. Then rotate the film inside the cassette (the same direction as it goes when being rewound) until the piece of 4x5 film starts to get sucked into the cassette. Then pull out the piece of 4x5 film -- the 35mm film comes with it.
The commercially prepared version of this is dymo label tape, (which may be harder to find than XX) ...works though.