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What films did you shoot most recently?

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Efke 100 @ 160 ISO
Leica M2
Dev in Diafine 3+3 (standard process)

This is my favorite film so far, tonally. Unfortunately, I've been having trouble with "spotting" of the negatives (thousands of tiny black dots, most invisible to the naked eye -- they show up in my scans). Seems to happen only with Efke -- haven't had it happen with Delta 100, Tri-X, Plus-X, FP4. Not sure if it's the film, my process, the chems, or all of the above (I'm a beginner to self-development, though not photography).
 
I shot some120 Fuji Velvia 100 today with my my Mamiya C330F.
 
Efke 100 @ 160 ISO
Leica M2
Dev in Diafine 3+3 (standard process)

This is my favorite film so far, tonally. Unfortunately, I've been having trouble with "spotting" of the negatives (thousands of tiny black dots, most invisible to the naked eye -- they show up in my scans). Seems to happen only with Efke -- haven't had it happen with Delta 100, Tri-X, Plus-X, FP4. Not sure if it's the film, my process, the chems, or all of the above (I'm a beginner to self-development, though not photography).

Fresh Fixer?

Fixer heavily laden with silver can cause those type of spots...
 
I shot Kodak Portra 160NC, spooled into an Instamatic 126 cartridge, from a 1960's Kodak Instamatic 104 :smile:

A Holga makes better pics.
 
Fuji NHP 220 and Kodak Tri-X 320 120 through my Rolleiflex 3.5F.
 
Fresh Fixer?

Fixer heavily laden with silver can cause those type of spots...

Thanks for your thought. That's one idea nobody has thrown out there yet. The fixer has only been used on about six rolls of 35mm. It's a liter of Ilford rapid fixer. I thought I could get a couple dozen rolls out of it, at a minimum. Am I wrong?
 
Thanks for your thought. That's one idea nobody has thrown out there yet. The fixer has only been used on about six rolls of 35mm. It's a liter of Ilford rapid fixer. I thought I could get a couple dozen rolls out of it, at a minimum. Am I wrong?

It's unlikely to be your fixer, I us Ilford Hypam or Rapid fixer and easily get 24 film per litre.

However I do filter it every so often and you should not shake it prior to use as that stirs up sediment. I use Adox/EFKE film and have no problems. Been using these fixers since the early 1970's.

You need to be very careful with EFKE films that temperatures are close throughout the Developer/rinse/fixer/wash cycle as the films are poorly hardened. I prefer not to use a stop bath with them.

Ian
 
Thanks for your thought. That's one idea nobody has thrown out there yet. The fixer has only been used on about six rolls of 35mm. It's a liter of Ilford rapid fixer. I thought I could get a couple dozen rolls out of it, at a minimum. Am I wrong?

It's unlikely to be your fixer, I us Ilford Hypam or Rapid fixer and easily get 24 film per litre.

However I do filter it every so often and you should not shake it prior to use as that stirs up sediment. I use Adox/EFKE film and have no problems. Been using these films & fixers since the early 1970's with no issues like this.

You need to be very careful with EFKE films that temperatures are close throughout the Developer/rinse/fixer/wash cycle as the films are poorly hardened. I prefer not to use a stop bath with them.

Ian
 
It's unlikely to be your fixer, I us Ilford Hypam or Rapid fixer and easily get 24 film per litre.

However I do filter it every so often and you should not shake it prior to use as that stirs up sediment. I use Adox/EFKE film and have no problems. Been using these fixers since the early 1970's.

You need to be very careful with EFKE films that temperatures are close throughout the Developer/rinse/fixer/wash cycle as the films are poorly hardened. I prefer not to use a stop bath with them.

Ian

Thanks. I probably should filter my diafine and fixer. I do wash straight from the tap (where there is some risk of diff temps), except for the last round, which I do with distilled water and ENF. Maybe I'll try my next roll washing only with distilled.
 
Looks like I am gonna hafta shoot the roll of T-Max 100 that came loaded up and ready to shoot in one of the RZ67 backs I just received in the mail....RATS!
 
This past week:

Color:
Kodachrome 25
Kodachrome 64
Kodachrome 200
Elite Chrome 100
Elite Chrome 200
Elite Chrome 400

B&W
Plus-X
 
120 - HP5+ and Foma 400
5x7 - HP5+
Darkroom - Maco Genius
 
Velvia 100F
Velvia 50 [expired]
Pro 160S [Expired]
Reala 100 [expired]
E100G [for cross processing]
Porta 160NC
T-MAX 400 [maybe one roll is expired but not sure]

Was hoping to shoot with Acros 100, but didn't have the opportunity to do
 
Ektar 100 as a change from my beloved Fuji Colour and to be honest not overly impressed

I am still convinced that regional lighting and weather affects the results of different films, explaining why some films are more popular than others.

Fuji may be more 'realistic' than Ektar in one's locale, yet Ektar may be the more 'realistic' in another.

Here in Southern California, the light and atmospheric conditions are very different from the UK or Japan -- or Brazil or Singapore. While do I enjoy Fuji, Ektar is better (for me).
 
hallo

120:

acros and delta 400 (would now change to trix)

135:

tmax100 and tmax400 (now i have 30meter legacy400)

all developed in d-23
 
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